Thursday, 21 July 2016

The Cami De Cavalls - DAY 6, 14th June - Punta Prima to Mao (Stage 19 to Cala Sant Esteve and Stage 20 to Mao) Total Distance reduced to 14km

As we are already in Mao, today we needed to get back to Punta Prima then walk back into Mao - that was until Elvis came up with a brilliant and cunning plan! Instead of messing about getting a bus to Punta Prima and wasting part of the nice cool morning waiting for, then travelling on a bus - why don't we do today's walk in reverse!! Walk from Mao to Punta Prima and then get the bus back - Excellent - so that's exactly what we did!! Today's supposed to be three stages and 21km long - but as we did an extra stage yesterday, then today we get a treat! Only two stages and 14km in total - we could be in a cake shop by lunch time :) Today is also a special day because we are officially over half way through. 5 days done - 5 days to go. But what's really special about today is.... a very lightweight back pack (in fact no back pack for Elvis) because we're using Mao as a base for 3 days, we don't need to carry all of our sh*t! On the trail for 6:55am

14th June 2016, 7:20am - Day 6 - End of Stage 20
Leaving Mao isn't as easy as the other stages - Mao is the capital city and has the usual urban sprawl, so after a few km's we're still on the city streets. This is a round-a-bout with a windmill on and in the distance there's another one! The windmills have been recently restored and are in working order. We are just passing a beautiful spot on the coast named Es Castell
14th June 2016, 7:25am - Day 6 - Stage 20
This maybe is just an 'Hodganism' but, if we did something daft or looked a bit stupid when we were kids, my (Keith) Mother would always say - 'You look a little Fond'. So I couldn't resist!
14th June 2016, 7:38am - Day 6 - Stage 20
Today the weather is very cool and breezy and quite overcast. Makes a lovely view towards sea with the sun streaming through the clouds. Great temperature for walking.
14th June 2016, 7:41am - Day 6 - Stage 20
Shortly after passing Es Castell, we turned right off the main road onto a country lane and soon ended up here at the start of stage 20/end of stage 19 (remember we're doing this day backwards!). This is the small but pretty village of Cala Sant Esteve. There's an old quarry here that might be worth a revisit - but sticking to our rules - no detours while we're doing the Cami!! We also pass by the impressive Forte De Marlborough - passing by being the operative word!
14th June 2016, 7:46am - Day 6 - End of Stage 19
Here is Keith using the cami guide post as some kind of gymnastic horse! Please boys, do not try this one at home unless you have a sure grip, otherwise you could end up in the nearest accident and emergency clinic, sat next to the guy who 'accidentally' fell on to the hoover extension pipe whilst naked!!.
14th June 2016, 7:53am - Day 6 - Stage 19
After Cala Sant Esteve, we leave the coast and follow country lanes. The scenery was good, but, as you can see in the next picture, for some reason the height of the walls increased and for a couple of km's it was like walking in a tunnel.
14th June 2016, 7:53am - Day 6 - Stage 19
The 'tunnel effect!! We did eventually pass an entrance to a large private estate and figured that must be why the walls were so high!
14th June 2016, 8:21am - Day 6 - Stage 19
For the first time on the walk, we missed one of the Cami guide posts - probably too busy talking! We ended up walking a lane through a farm - that's where we saw these little piggies and a little further down...
14th June 2016, 8:28am - Day 6 - Stage 19
..we saw this beauty! This is a typical black Menorcan stallion  - we were to see a few more of these later in the trip - but that's a different story!. After realising that we hadn't seen a cami guide post for a while we decided to back track - we happened to bump into two English ladies out for a stroll and they pointed us in the right direction. Only a ten minute diversion in the end, but worth it to see the horse (and the pigs).
14th June 2016, 9:13am - Day 6 - Stage 19
Eventually we get back to the coast and cross this little beauty of a beach at Alcalfar
14th June 2016, 9:18am - Day 6 - Stage 19
Along the coast with the Torre d'Alcalfar (Tower of Alcalfar) in the distance. We are actually quite close to Punat Prima already and we can almost taste the ice cream.
14th June 2016, 9:25am - Day 6 - Stage 19
This picture and the next are next to the Torre d' Alcalfar looking Northwards up the coast.
14th June 2016, 9:27am - Day 6 - Stage 19


14th June 2016, 9:28am - Day 6 - Start of Stage 19


 
The last shot of the day - the familiar sight of the light house at Punt Prima, the last time we saw this (yesterday) we were practically sprinting towards the lighthouse trying to catch the bus, today though, we have plenty of time. We know which bus to get and where to get it from, so we can stroll into town like we own the place - eat their ice cream and get the hell out of there!. We were in the ice cream parlour at 10am, that's only 3 hours. We got the bus back to Mao, had a little nap and had a great night out - including a lovely meal at 'Opera' as recommended by JSSS. Tomorrow is a special day for another reason.....

Wednesday, 20 July 2016

The Cami De Cavalls - DAY 5, 13th June - Son Bou to Binissafuller (Stage 16 to Cala en Porter, Stage 17 to Binissafuller [which we extended to include Stage 18 to Punta Prima]) Total Distance extended to 27km.

With the assurance of a full breakfast buffet, we decided not to be so hasty this morning :) The breakfast was very good and we took our time. The last couple of days have cooled off so we knew we could probably get away with a later start. There's no way Elvis is missing breakfast anyway so that's immaterial really. We got back on the trail for 8:45am.  


13th June 2016, 8:43am - Day 5 - Start of Stage 16
 So here we are at post no. 1 of Stage 16, as the baldy bloke is very expertly pointing out. Today should really start with stage 15 from Sant Tomas, but we added that to yesterdays itinerary. Elvis's feet are not too bad, but the black mini socks are on to protect the 'dirty blister'. I'm on full ibrufen and paracetamol dosage for the dodgy knee. Today could be a make or break job - we will have to see! 
13th June 2016, 8:47am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 This is looking back from the trail at Son Bou and the Sol hotel dominating the sea front. When I look at this now it only adds to my embarrassment. When we arrived at Son Bou yesterday I wasn't sure where the hotel was, so I asked a life guard. He turned and looked towards the great big white tower block, then turned to look at me, with that kind of face that says 'Not a full shilling!'  - he then pointed towards the big white block and said in half English and half Spanish (which I can't speak but feel capable of translating in this instance) - "See that enormous white tower over there you silly English fool - Do you think that might be it?". I shuffled off with the hope that I wouldn't see him again!
13th June 2016, 8:48am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 One very steep climb out of Son Bou and then the scenery was amazing. The trail went through some gorgeous natural rock valleys and trees, and at one stage we were walking along accompanied by yellow butterflies with the air filled with bird song, it was a real high point of the whole walk.
13th June 2016, 8:55am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 .....under and through the white calcareous rock face, through lovely greenery and the sea in the background......
13th June 2016, 8:56am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 ...... along the valley floor with lots of butterflies along side us. 
13th June 2016, 9:07am - Day 5 - Stage 16
.... this spot was really beautiful and the colours were spectacular.
13th June 2016, 9:16am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 At the end of the valley we take a turn left and head inland for the rest of this stage until we come back to the coast at Cala En Porter. However, this is probably one of the best inland sections we have done so far. The terrain changes often and there's lots of colour and beautiful scenery. 
13th June 2016, 9:45am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 Elvis striding out through a field of hay .. and these yellow thistle looking plants!
13th June 2016,10:01am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 This is Herman the tortoise, no really, that's his name 'Hermann's Tortoise'. We helped this chap out a little bit by putting him on the other side of the road because, if you look carefully, he's sitting right on a tyre track from the last vehicle that passed. We think Hermann owes us one!
13th June 2016, 10:16am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 Unfortunately the information board is in Catalan and Spanish (no English), but from the picture I can work out that grain would be poured into the circle and horses or cattle are used to drag a stone around and perform the grinding of grain. I think I also worked out that these were built next to the workers homes so that they could monitor the fields to determine when the grain was ready. If you want more info, blow the picture up and learn to speak Spanish - it's all there! 
13th June 2016, 10:19am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 What kind of trickery is this? It's only a 'stitched photo' which is just three pictures joined so you can get all the scenery in! But some people demand to be in as many pictures as possible :)
13th June 2016, 10:24am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 Some excellent examples on Menorcan fence work, down a beautiful path into another valley.
13th June 2016, 10:26am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 Here is very old horse trough - one of the troughs still has water in it!!
13th June 2016, 10:35am - Day 5 - Stage 16
 Down in the valley we walked through a bamboo field, it was like being back in Malaysia!! 
13th June 2016, 10:53am - Day 5 - End of Stage 16
 Back to the sea at the end of stage 16, we are at a beautiful spot perched high on the side of the inlet. This is Cala En Porter. We are sitting in a cafĂ© at Club Menorca, looking over this beautiful view and watching osprey and kites flying around. We met the guy who runs Club Menorca, Peter, who is full of great stories and information about Menorca and the Cami De Cavalls. At the end of todays walk, we should finish at Binissafuller and then get a bus to our accommodation in Mao. But Peter pointed out, that there's no bus from Binissafuller, but there is one from Punta Prima!! So, a change of plan, we are now doing an extra stage to get to Punta Prima and the bus to Mao. It's an extra 7km, but we did save 6km by extending yesterdays walk - oh well, we will get the benefit of a shorter day six! 
13th June 2016, 12:40pm - Day 5 - Stage 17
 The book describes this section of the walk ... 'through a fantastic holm-oak wood, which forms authentic tunnels through vegetation' - nicely put! 
13th June 2016, 2:11pm - Day 5 - Stage 17
We might put a bid in for this house if it comes up for sale - a very lovely spot.
13th June 2016, 3:33pm - Day 5 - Stage 17
We stopped for a break here at Cala de Binisafuller and then decided that we would put a sprint on and get the 5:15pm bus from Punta Prima. It's only about 8km to Punta Prima from here. That should be possible in 1 hour 45 mins? An interesting point about the name Binisafuller, all names in Menorca that begins 'Bini' usually means it was named by the Arabs when they were in charge.
13th June 2016, 3:47pm - Day 5 - End of Stage 17
 This is the very Arab looking, Binibequer Vell, we passed through here at a rate of 100 metres per minute!! The path was now mostly tarmac through urban areas so it was easy walking. 

13th June 2016, 4:41pm - Day 5 - Stage 18
 Some clever photographer has lined up the sign of Punta Prima, with the lighthouse at Punta Prima, so that anyone looking at the picture can clearly see the destination :) 
13th June 2016, 5:55pm - Day 5 - After Stage 18
 Having 'legged' it into Punta Prima, we made it in time for the bus and were waiting at the stop in good time (5pm). We were lucky to be allowed on the bus with 'hooves' in this state - although it is mostly just muck! After getting off the bus, we had a couple of beers in the square outside our Hostel (guest house) Isla before we settled into our room for a three day booking. The place is really nice and well positioned. A shower and a nap, then out on the town for eats. The following are a few pics from the sunset vistas of the capital, Mao (or Mahon if you prefer).  
13th June 2016, 8:22pm - Day 5 - 1st Night in Mao

13th June 2016, 8:32pm - Day 5 - 1st Night in Mao

13th June 2016, 8:34pm - Day 5 - 1st Night in Mao

13th June 2016, 8:35pm - Day 5 - 1st Night in Mao

13th June 2016, 8:37pm - Day 5 - 1st Night in Mao


13th June 2016, 9:16pm - Day 5 - 1st Night in Mao

Saturday, 16 July 2016

The Cami De Cavalls - DAY 4, 12th June - Son Xoriguer to Sant Tomas (Stage 12.2 to Cala en Turqueta, Stage 13 to Cala Galdana and Stage 14 to Sant Tomas[which we extended to include stage 15 to Son Bou]) Total Distance extended to 31km.

Today is the longest distance of any day. Even longer than day 1  - but supposedly not as tough. Yet, for some reason, of which neither of us can fathom, we decided when we planned this back home, that instead of finishing at Sant Tomas, we would walk another 6km and finish at Son Bou! Hmm - easy done on paper, but here out in the field is a different story. Given the distance we needed to cover (now 32km) we had an early night, arranged a 'packed breakfast' with the hotel and we made off in the darkness at 5:45am. 
12th June 2016, 5:47am- Day 4 - Start of Stage 12.2
All packed and ready to go, the sun is just coming up and today we are heading east all day, so that sun is going to be in our faces. Take a look at those lovely feet - after today they'll never be the same again!
12th June 2016, 5:56am - Day 4 - Stage 12.2
This picture nicely illustrates one of the features of the cami trail marker posts. If you look to the right of the picture, you will see a small white light in the distance. That's actually a reflection of the camera flash. Apparently, some people do the cami in the dark, with head torches on to pick out the reflectors fitted onto the posts for guidance. Now - what would be the point of doing this walk, full of beautiful scenery, in the dark?
12th June 2016, 6:41am - Day 4 - Stage 12.2
The first stage of this walk is coastal all the way. We have passed mostly deserted tourist areas and beaches. But today is Sunday and we have seen some locals out very early on their day off on their way to their favourite beaches and some even having slept overnight on the beach! The sun is right in front of us now and just rising. However today is perfect for walking, quite overcast and a lot cooler. Just as well because today could be a long one!
12th June 2016, 6:43am - Day 4 - Stage 12.2
In total contrast to the previous picture, the path changes from chalk dust to red soil. Still by the sea, lovely and cool. We're actually making good time because the weather is so perfect.
12th June 2016, 6:48am- Day 4 - Stage 12.2
This picture (and the one below) is another example of a tunnel entrance leading to a long tunnel with openings facing out to sea. Our guide book only describes them as caves and tunnels but doesn't explain there purpose. A lot of caves are used as a necropolis, but these seem different. (I've tried 'googling' it :) )
12th June 2016, 6:51am - Day 4 - Stage 12.2


12th June 2016, 7:05am - Day 4 - Stage 12.2
This is the beach or 'Platges' of Son Saura - we have just passed a family setting up camp on the beach for a nice 'Sunday off - get together'.
12th June 2016, 7:28am - Day 4 - Stage 12.2
Another nice beach - this one is Cala des Talalet. Not far now to the 10km mark and the end of the first stage. Still nice and cool and breezy - bliss.
12th June 2016, 7:37am - Day 4 - Stage 12.2
Quite a rocky pathway - but lovely coastal views all the way.
12th June 2016, 7:48am - Day 4 - Stage 12.2
This is the opening to the inlet (Cala) of Cala en Turqueta (turquoise) and the end of the stage. From here we will head off the coast a little and join up with a track that we have walked twice before from Cala Galdana. We know Cala Galdana quite well and have already decided that this will be a breakfast stop - how exciting!!
12th June 2016, 8:31am - Day 4 - Stage 13
Forgot to mention that we had a camera man accompanying us (actually those cami guide posts come in useful as a tripod now and then). Off the coast a little now, with some lovely forest walking ahead.
12th June 2016, 8:47am - Day 4 - Start of Stage 13
Walking through beautiful forest of holm oak and pine - the smells are amazing and the only sounds are birds singing. Heaven!!
12th June 2016, 8:53am - Day 4 - Start of Stage 13
Things are getting even better, I (Keith) love natural rock - we now seem to be walking through forested rock valleys. When I was a boy I used to climb rocks like these every summer, it reminds me a lot of Claxeugh rock in Sunderland, except it is about 20 degrees warmer!!
12th June 2016, 8:59am - Day 4 - Stage 13
If you can't be next to the sea, the next best thing is a rocky forested valley! This part of the walk is stunningly beautiful and a nice change to beautiful beaches. It is possible to get tired of beautiful beaches?
12th June 2016, 9:12am - Day 4 - Stage 13
We have now joined the part of the path we have walked before. This is the beach at Cala Macarella - except we have NEVER seen it like this before. The last time we came, there was no space left on the beach and we had to sit way back. The sea was like a bowl of human soup! We probably would have stopped for a swim, but we're not really that hot - the conditions are perfect for walking..... and breakfast at Cala Galdana is calling!
12th June 2016, 9:14am - Day 4 - Stage 13
Getting to the beach at Cala Macarella is quite a task. We passed a few people after this point who were walking from Cala Galdana to the beach asking how much farther to the beach - some of them looked like they were going to struggle getting down all the steps to the beach!!
12th June 2016, 9:30am - Day 4 - Stage 13
The beautiful bay of Cala Galdana and then end of stage 13 - but more importantly, our designated breakfast / brunch spot for today. We decided to have a long break as there's still a lot to do today and the batteries could do with charging.
12th June 2016, 9:47am - Day 4 - End of Stage 13
Down in the bay, things are suspiciously quiet! Normally this beach would be packed. It is still early but we think the main reason is that although the weather is perfect for walking, it's not that good for sunbathing. We found a nice beach restaurant and had a long break.
 
Decision time!! The book mentions that there is a coastal path that 'the walker' may prefer to take from Cala Galdana. We found the map (above). The blue route is the original cami trail and the red route is a more scenic route around the coast. Whilst 'breakfasting' we pondered on whether we could reduce our days kilometre tally by choosing correctly!! Keith decided that the red route looked shorter - later on, Elvis was to seriously disagree!! We set off after brunch and headed for the 'red' route.
12th June 2016, 11:23am - Day 4 - Start of Stage 14
The 'red' route didn't start particularly well!! Straight up the sheer side of the inlet - already we were beginning to wonder if we should have took the blue route!
12th June 2016, 11:51am - Day 4 - Stage 14
Once at the top, the 'red' route levelled off but only until a beach came along, then it went down to the beach and back up the other side. All the ups and downs was beginning to tell. I (Keith) started to get problems with my knee - fortunately Elvis carries a full pharmacy on her back and was able to administer ibrufen and paracetamol with ease - which kicked in just in time! We've been on the go 6 hours now and we were probably just starting to feel it. This beach looked very nice at Cala Mitjana.
12th June 2016, 12:28pm - Day 4 - Stage 14
By the next beach at Cala Trebaluger we were getting tired of the very rocky path and the ups and downs - fortunately, a couple of km's after this it seemed to level out for a while.
12th June 2016, 1:06pm - Day 4 - Stage 14
There are some quarries around these parts, although this cave is probably not connected. It looked like it had been blocked up and then re-opened again - possibly another necropolis? 
12th June 2016, 1:41pm - Day 4 - Stage 14
Some lovely Menorcan fence work to protect the walkers from the cliffs. This is the end of a lovely stretch of path, quite flat along the coast just before the resort of Sant Tomas and what should have been the end of the day, but alas, the planners had a different idea.
12th June 2016, 2:05pm - Day 4 - End of Stage 14
Elvis had devised that when you see people lying on a beach or walking towards you in swimsuits and flip flops - then you can't be far from a resort! This is the edge of Sant Tomas, mostly locals enjoying a Sunday on a quieter part of the beach. We're now adding stage 15 to then end of the day and heading for Son Bou.
12th June 2016, 2:53pm - Day 4 - Start of Stage 15
Thankfully, this picture doesn't show Elvis's face - if it did, it would show a woman in the grip of a serious 'sense of humour collapse'. Stage 15 starts with another route choice, there's a route that veers off inland and goes around a salt marsh or there's a more direct route that goes straight over a sand bank. No points for guessing which we took! The shortest! The book described the walk across the sand bank as 'along six wooden walkways' and even shows pictures of board walks stretching off into the distance. Not quite!! The walk was on sand and the board walks were for people to access the beaches. At this point we had walked about a mile in soft sand, which is very difficult! Also, it had caused some major blisters on Elvis's hooves and the dummy had been spat right out and stamped on!! We ended up walking in the sea to try and get some relief - by the time we got to the hotel we were fit to drop. The hotel was possibly our worst booking yet. It was a massive family resort - we knew we were in trouble when we were met at the reception by Freddie Flintstone and some other cartoon characters!  Fortunately they didn't 'greet' Elvis or they may have got a blistered foot in there face!! But actually, the room was fine and the breakfast the next morning was really good.
12th June 2016, 5:44pm - End of Day 4
We finished at exactly 4pm, so that was 5:45am to 4pm on the go, with a 90 minute stop at Cala Galdana - quite a day!! Here is Elvis all showered and dressed up ready for eats and drinks at that bar in the background on the beach. I wonder what kind of footwear would go with that little black dress........
12th June 2016, 5:44pm - End of Day 4
WHAT'S THIS - BLACK SOCK AND SANDALS!!! The hooves are so badly blistered and bloodshot, that they have to be covered up, otherwise guests in the restaurant may be put off their food. Finding somewhere that sells socks isn't easy at a beach resort - fortunately Elvis found a little Chinese lady with some socks and a pharmacy to get some anti-septic cream and an industrial strength blister plaster pack. Elvis had to perform some 'home surgery' on a 'dirty blister'  - no pictures thankfully!
Had a lovely meal on the beach,  a few drinks and collapsed into bed. It's another long day tomorrow, but it has the bonus of our first night of three in the capital, Mao. We beginning to think we might just do this - IF the hooves recover by the morning!